Mandu is one of central India's great ruin fields: a walled plateau above the Nimar plains, full of Afghan palaces, stepwells, tombs, mosques, gateways, and half-forgotten pavilions. It is often described as a romance of stone, and for once the phrase is not too much. The best buildings are severe and elegant rather than over-decorated, and the setting gives them room to breathe.
The town was the capital of the Malwa sultans in the 15th century, then drifted into the margins after the Mughal conquest. What remains is spread over a large area, so Mandu is not a single monument you tick off in an hour. The Royal Enclave has the famous Jahaz Mahal, Hindola Mahal, and the waterworks around Champa Baoli. The Village Group gathers the Jami Masjid, Ashrafi Mahal, and Lohani Caves. South of town, the Rewa Kund group links the story of Baz Bahadur and Roopmati through the Baz Bahadur Palace, Rewa Kund, and Rani Roopmati Pavilion.
Come with time and transport. The distances are too large for a casual walk, though the plateau is wonderful by bicycle outside the hottest months. Mandu works as a long day from Indore, but it deserves a night if you want the ruins at sunrise and the ramparts in evening light.