Tangerang is a large satellite city west of Jakarta, best known to travellers as the location of Soekarno-Hatta International Airport. Most people pass straight through on their way to or from the capital, but if you have a long layover or an early morning flight, Tangerang has enough to fill a few hours.
The old Chinese quarter along the Cisadane River is the most interesting part of town, with narrow lanes, the 17th-century Boen Tek Bio Temple, and a traditional market. The Benteng Heritage Museum in a restored shophouse nearby tells the story of Tangerang's Peranakan community. Just steps away, the Kali Pasir Mosque — built in 1700 with Chinese community help — shows the area's long history of cultural exchange in its unusual dome. The area has a distinct Peranakan (Chinese-Indonesian) character and is a good place to eat — laksa Tangerang, a coconut milk-based noodle soup, is the local specialty and worth seeking out at the warungs near the old market.
The Al-Azhom Grand Mosque, the largest in Banten province, anchors the modern civic centre with its striking domed silhouette. South Tangerang (Tangerang Selatan), technically a separate municipality, has developed rapidly into a middle-class residential area with modern malls, cafes, and the manicured streets of BSD City. It is a different world from the old quarter. For travellers, Tangerang's main utility is its proximity to the airport — the city centre is about 10 km from the terminals, and taxis are readily available.