Cuckoo's Den is the most famous of the rooftop restaurants on Fort Road Food Street, a converted 19th-century haveli overlooking the Badshahi Mosque. It was opened in 1988 by the Pakistani painter Iqbal Hussain, who grew up in Heera Mandi and whose paintings of the neighbourhood's courtesans line the staircase.
The menu is straightforward Punjabi — mutton karahi, chicken tikka, daal — and the cooking is good but not why you come. You come for the view: at sunset and after dark, with the mosque illuminated and the rooftops of the Walled City stretching out below, it is one of the great dinner views in South Asia. Reservations essential.