Manila rewards those who accept it on its own terms. The old walled city of Intramuros — bombed flat in 1945 and only partially rebuilt — is where you start, with San Agustin Church, Fort Santiago, and the cathedral all within a fifteen-minute walk. The Ayala Museum in Makati is the best single museum. For the stranger side of the city, take the jeepney to the Chinese Cemetery, where the tombs are bungalows with air conditioning.