Namur sits at the confluence of the Sambre and the Meuse, a strategic position that made it one of the most contested cities in the Low Countries for centuries. The massive Citadel looming over the rivers is the main reminder of that history — you can walk the ramparts and tour five kilometres of tunnels for views over the city and the wooded valleys below.
The city itself is the capital of Wallonia and has a pleasant, understated centre. The old town streets between St Aubin's Cathedral — a Baroque masterpiece with the heart of Don Juan of Austria — and the river are lined with cafés and small shops. Don't miss the surprising Art Deco district of the Quartier des Carmes, the trompe-l'oeil mural of 250 Walloons, the grumbling bronze pair Djoseph et Françwès, and — for AC/DC fans — the bust of Brian Johnson commemorating the band's first ever gig with him in 1980. Look out, too, for the tiny miniatures of Isaac Cordal scattered on ledges and rooftops around the old town.
Namur is not as polished as Bruges or as lively as Brussels, but it is genuine and unhurried, and the riverside setting is lovely. It makes an excellent base for exploring the Meuse valley. The towns of Dinant and Rochefort are easy day trips, and the surrounding Ardennes countryside offers cycling, kayaking, and some of Belgium's best walking. A short trip east takes you to the wooded Rocks of Marche-les-Dames, where King Albert I died climbing in 1934.