Bačvice Beach

Bačvice is Split's most famous beach — a crescent of sand in a sheltered bay just ten minutes' walk east of the old town, with shallow water and a good number of snack bars and changing rooms. It is not the most beautiful beach on this stretch of coast, but it is the most alive: summer afternoons bring the full spectrum of Split society, from pensioners with newspapers to young families and the picigin players in the shallows.

The water here is shallow enough to stand in for 50 metres — which is why picigin works at all; the game requires the players to be in water just above the ankles. The beach gets crowded on summer weekends; weekday mornings are far more manageable. The beach pavilion has changed appearance many times over the decades; the current version has a terrace bar with a good view of the proceedings. It's reached by walking east from the harbour along the Riva and then south along the waterfront.

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A story
Bačvice is the home of picigin, a waterball game played in shallow water that is unique to Split and practised nowhere else with serious intent. The game, invented here at the beginning of the 20th century, involves five players slapping a small ball above the water line without letting it touch the surface, in increasingly acrobatic dives. Picigin was added to Croatia's list of intangible cultural heritage in 2011, and the world championship is held on this beach every year.

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