Plzeň (Pilsen) is a place of pilgrimage for anyone who likes beer — this is where lager was invented. In 1842 the Bavarian brewer Josef Groll produced the first batch of pale lager in the town's new brewery, and the word "Pilsner" has been synonymous with the style ever since. The Pilsner Urquell Brewery, still operating on the original site, offers tours that end in the unfiltered cellars.
But there is more to Plzeň than beer. The historical centre is dominated by the Gothic Cathedral of St. Bartholomew, whose spire at 102 metres is the tallest church tower in Bohemia. The náměstí Republiky (Republic Square) is one of the largest medieval market squares in Europe, lined with Renaissance and Baroque buildings. The town hall at the southern end and the crooked Pražská street leading off the square are worth a stroll. Below ground, a network of medieval cellars and tunnels (the Plzeň Historical Underground) can be visited on guided tours.
The Great Synagogue a few streets west of the square is the third-largest synagogue in the world by floor area — its Moorish towers are surprisingly striking. The city was also liberated by American troops in 1945, not by the Soviets, a fact suppressed for decades; the Patton Memorial Pilsen tells that story. In 2015 Plzeň was the European Capital of Culture, which upgraded the arts infrastructure and gave the city a confidence that outlasted the year itself.