Volos sits at the head of the Pagasitic Gulf, a port city that serves as the gateway to the Pelion peninsula. Flattened by an earthquake in the 1950s and rebuilt from scratch, it has an open, airy feel with the occasional old characterful building hiding among the modern architecture. The city is famous for its tsipouradika — small restaurants where you drink tsipouro (a local spirit similar to ouzo) accompanied by endless plates of seafood meze.
The pedestrianized seafront is the heart of city life. Cafes and tsipouradika line the waterfront, and on warm evenings the whole city seems to be out walking, eating, and drinking along it. The archaeological museum is outstanding — possibly one of the best mid-sized museums in Greece, with a superb collection of painted funerary stelae from nearby Demetrias.
The real draw, though, is the Pelion peninsula stretching south from the city. Head first for Makrynitsa, known as the balcony of Pelion, a hill village with fortified mansions and sweeping views over the gulf. It draws tourists, but the architecture is worth it — one mansion is open to the public as a small museum just below the main square. Further down the peninsula, stop in Ano Gatzea for a meal at the traditional tavern Angeliko, with a good range of food and wonderful views from the balcony.
On the Aegean side of the peninsula, do not miss Milopotamos with its striking beach and sea arches. Fair warning: the Aegean beaches fill up on summer weekends, so time your visits for midweek. The Pelion as a whole is ideal if you want to get away from the usual tourist crowds — low-key tourism is the watchword here, and guided tours and boat trips can be hard to find. Eclipse Sailing operates day trips on the Pagasitic Gulf and cruises to the Sporades (Skiathos, Skopelos, and Alonissos) from Volos, Milina, and Kala Nera.