Samuel's Fortress

Samuel's Fortress crowns the highest hill of Ohrid old town, its walls and towers preserving a recognisable medieval citadel skyline. Most of what stands today is from the late 10th and 11th centuries, with Byzantine and Ottoman repairs layered on top. The walls have been substantially restored since 2003, sometimes more enthusiastically than scrupulously, but the silhouette is faithful to the original.

The walk along the upper rampart, when open, gives the best view of the lake — the Albanian shore visible across the water, the church of Kaneo perched below, and the whole old town descending in steps down to the harbour. Entry is by a small ticket. Wear shoes with grip — the worn stone steps are slippery.

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A story
Tsar Samuel made Ohrid the capital of his Bulgarian-Macedonian empire around 990, building or substantially rebuilding the fortress that crowns the city. His defeat by the Byzantine emperor Basil II at the Battle of Kleidion in 1014 is one of the most notorious episodes in Balkan history — Basil reportedly blinded 14,000 prisoners, returned them to Samuel, and the tsar died of shock at the sight of them.

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