Zutphen is one of the best-preserved medieval towns in the Netherlands, a former Hanseatic trading city on the IJssel river that somehow escaped both wartime destruction and post-war redevelopment. The result is a compact old centre of cobbled streets, Gothic churches, medieval towers, and merchants' houses that looks much as it did 500 years ago.
The town was one of the earliest members of the Hanseatic League, and its wealth from the river trade is visible in the quality of its buildings — this was a prosperous place. The Walburgiskerk dominates the skyline, and the Librije (chained library) inside it is one of the rarest medieval treasures in the country. The Drogenapstoren, a 14th-century tower at the main crossroads, and the remains of the medieval town walls along the Berkel river add to the atmosphere.
Zutphen is quieter and less visited than Deventer or Arnhem, which is part of its charm. The Saturday market on the Groenmarkt is lively, the cafés along the IJssel are pleasant, and the town can be comfortably explored on foot in a day. Direct trains from Amsterdam take about 90 minutes.