Hemsedal calls itself the Scandinavian Alps, which is marketing, but not entirely wrong. The ski area is one of Norway's largest and most reliable for snow, with terrain that ranges from gentle family slopes to serious off-piste above the treeline. It draws skiers from Oslo (three hours by car) and increasingly from abroad, though it remains far less crowded than the big Alpine resorts.
The village itself is small — a cluster of hotels, rental cabins, and a few restaurants along the valley floor. Hemsedal is not a charming old mountain village; it is a purpose-built ski destination, and it does not pretend otherwise. What it does well is skiing: 53 kilometres of groomed runs served by modern lifts, a good terrain park, and backcountry touring in the Hemsedalsfjella mountains above the resort for those with the skills and equipment.
In summer the valley transforms into hiking and mountain biking country. The Hemsedalsfjella peaks top out above 1,800 metres, and the trails through alpine meadows are genuinely beautiful. The Rjukandefossen waterfall near Tuv is worth visiting in snowmelt season. Fishing for trout in the Hemsila river is popular throughout summer. But winter is the main season, and if you are looking for Norway's best downhill skiing without the crowds of a French or Austrian resort, Hemsedal is a strong choice.