Vic

Catalan cathedral city with a porticoed market square and a rich Romanesque art collection.

Vic is a handsome cathedral city about 60 kilometres north of Barcelona, sitting on a plain ringed by low mountains at the heart of the Osona comarca. It has been an episcopal seat since the 6th century, and the old town is dense with Romanesque and Gothic churches, medieval arcades, and mansions with painted facades.

The centrepiece is the Plaça Major, one of the finest porticoed squares in Catalonia, which fills with market stalls on Tuesdays and Saturdays — as it has for over a thousand years. The cathedral, rebuilt in neoclassical style, is covered inside with sweeping murals by Josep Maria Sert that are worth the visit alone. The Episcopal Museum nearby holds one of the best collections of Romanesque art outside Barcelona. Hidden in the streets above the old town, the Roman temple is one of the finest surviving Roman monuments in Iberia.

Vic is also the capital of Catalan cured meats. The local fuet and llonganissa are famous across Spain, and the surrounding farmland produces some of the region's best artisan food. For a serious meal, Can Jubany in nearby Calldetenes is one of Catalonia's celebrated Michelin-starred tables. Vic makes a good day trip from Barcelona or a stop on the way to the Pyrenees.

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Eating Out

Vic is the capital of Catalan cured meats and takes its food seriously. The market on Plaça Major is the best place to stock up on local fuet and llonganissa; nearby delis and butchers carry the best producers. The restaurant scene is solid for a city this size, with a strong emphasis on Catalan seasonal cooking.

Can Jubany, in the nearby village of Calldetenes (about 4 km from Vic), holds a Michelin star and is the most celebrated restaurant in the comarca — if you are making a special trip, book well ahead.

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Getting There

Vic is about 60 kilometres north of Barcelona, easily reached by train. The R3 regional train runs from Barcelona Sants and Passeig de Gràcia roughly every hour; the journey takes around an hour and a quarter. Vic has a single station on the edge of the old town, a short walk from the Plaça Major.

By car, take the C-17 from Barcelona; the motorway runs through the Congost gorge and up onto the Osona plain, a handsome drive. Vic is well signposted from the motorway exit.

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Things to Do

Vic rewards careful exploration. The old town holds a Roman temple, a cathedral with sweeping murals, and one of the great Romanesque art collections in Europe. The porticoed Plaça Major fills with market stalls twice a week, as it has for a thousand years.

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When to Go

Vic has a continental Catalan climate — warmer and drier than the coast, with cold winters and occasional fog in the plain. Snow is possible between December and February. Spring and autumn are the best seasons: mild temperatures, good light, and the market at its liveliest.

The Mercat del Ram, held on Palm Sunday in the Plaça Major, is one of the largest traditional markets in Catalonia and worth timing a visit around. A major livestock fair with roots in the medieval period, it draws producers from across the comarca.