Vaud Alps resort village on a sunny terrace above the Rhône valley, with skiing and sanatorium history
Leysin is a mountain resort village in the Vaud Alps, perched on a south-facing terrace at around 1,300 metres above the Rhône valley. It's well-known as a winter ski destination, but the summer version — quieter, cheaper, with good walking and mountain biking — is equally rewarding. The dominant landmark is La Berneuse (2,048 m), reached by gondola from the village and crowned by a revolving panoramic restaurant; the more demanding Tour d'Aï rises beyond it.
The village has a long history as a sanatorium town: the combination of altitude, sunshine, and clean air made it a popular destination for tuberculosis patients in the early 20th century, and some of those grand Belle Époque buildings survive. Today it's home to the American College of Switzerland, which gives it an international flavour. Paragliding tandem flights launch off Berneuse in the warmer months, and in the centre of the village La Fromagerie is the classic spot for an evening of fondue.
From Leysin it's a short drive or train ride to Aigle and its medieval castle surrounded by vineyards, and the shores of Lake Geneva at Lausanne and Montreux are less than an hour away.
Guide
Getting There
By train. The simplest route is to take the main-line train to Aigle, in the Rhône valley below, and change there onto the narrow-gauge Aigle–Leysin (AL) line. The mountain train climbs spectacularly through the vineyards and forests above Aigle and reaches Leysin in just over half an hour. The whole journey from Geneva Airport via Lausanne takes about two hours.
By car. From the Lausanne–Brig motorway (A9) take the Aigle exit and follow signs for Leysin up the mountain road — about 15 km of switchbacks. Snow tyres are required in winter and the road can be slow in bad weather; check conditions before leaving.
By air. The nearest airport is Geneva (about 90 minutes by train), with Zurich a further hour or so beyond.
Guide
When to Go
Winter (December to March). Snow is reliable from mid-December through to the end of March most years, with the school holidays in February the busiest period. Leysin is south-facing, so the sun reaches the pistes early and the village stays warmer than its altitude suggests.
Summer (June to September). The lifts to Berneuse open from late June to mid-September, and this is the best time for hiking, paragliding, and mountain biking. Days are warm but evenings are cool — pack a layer.
Shoulder seasons. April to May and October to early December are quiet — many hotels, restaurants, and lifts close. The advantage is steeply-discounted rooms and the village more or less to yourself.
