Port Said sits at the Mediterranean entrance to the Suez Canal, the city that was built to make the canal possible. Founded in 1859 when construction began, it grew quickly into a cosmopolitan port town where Africa meets Asia and the Mediterranean meets the Red Sea route to the Indian Ocean.
The city occupies a narrow strip of land between the sea and Lake Manzala, much of it reclaimed. The waterfront along the canal is the main attraction — watching the enormous container ships glide past at close range is oddly mesmerising. The old European quarter around the canal entrance still has fine 19th-century buildings with wooden balconies and grand façades, though many are in poor repair.
Port Said is a free trade zone, which means shopping is a draw for Egyptians from Cairo and the Delta cities. The commercial district buzzes with activity. The military museum near the waterfront covers the 1956 Suez Crisis and the 1973 war — Port Said saw heavy fighting in both and takes considerable pride in its resistance.
For most visitors, Port Said is a stop on a cruise ship or a jumping-off point for day trips to Cairo and the Pyramids, about two and a half hours away by road. But the city rewards a slower look. Walk the corniche at sunset, drink tea at one of the waterfront cafes, and watch the ships pass.