The pedestrianised main street of central Shkodër, named after the city's most famous 19th-century painter. A 600-metre stretch of restored Italianate and Austro-Hungarian houses in pale yellow, ochre, and dusty pink, with shops and cafés on the ground floor and apartments above. At its busiest in the cool of early evening, when most of the city seems to be out for the xhiro — the traditional Balkan evening promenade.
The buildings are the survivors of pre-Communist Shkodër — the city was once known as the most European of Albania's towns — and the recent restoration has been done carefully. A handful of small art galleries, a couple of bookshops, an ice-cream parlour, and a half-dozen cafés make this the natural place to spend an evening hour.