Rozafa Castle

Rozafa is the castle that defines Shkodër — a long, narrow citadel on a 130-metre limestone hill at the confluence of the Drin, Buna, and Kir rivers. Illyrian foundations from the 4th century BC, Venetian walls from the 14th, Ottoman gates from the 15th: the layered fabric of the place is a thousand years of Balkan history compressed into one site.

The walk up takes 20 minutes from the foot of the hill. Allow at least two hours at the top: there are three concentric wards, a small museum in the restored 19th-century barracks, the ruined Church of St Stephen at the highest point, and four separate viewpoints over the rivers, the lake, and the mountains beyond. Open daily; tickets are inexpensive. Bring water in summer — there is no shade.

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A story
The legend that gives the castle its name is one of the darkest in the Balkans. Three brothers laboured to build the walls, but every night what they raised by day collapsed. A wise man told them the foundations would only hold if a living person was sealed into them, and that whichever of their wives brought lunch the next day would be chosen. Two of the brothers warned their wives; Rozafa, the youngest, came as expected and was walled in alive. The story has her asking that her right breast, right eye, right hand, and right foot be left exposed so she could continue to nurse and care for her infant son.

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