Riviera delle Palme
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Riviera delle Palme

Riviera delle Palme

Ligurian coast stretch from Varazze to Andora, lined with palm promenades, ports, beaches, and historic towns.

The Riviera delle Palme — the Riviera of the Palms — stretches along the Ligurian coast from Varazze in the east to Andora in the west, taking in Savona, Finale Ligure, Loano, Albenga, and Alassio along the way. The name comes from the palm-lined promenades that the towns planted in the nineteenth century to attract northern European visitors, and the palms are still there, lining the seafronts between stretches of sandy and pebble beach.

This is working Liguria as much as resort Liguria. Savona has a real port and a serious historical centre — the Priamàr fortress, the Sistine Chapel connection (Pope Julius II was born here), the ceramics tradition that runs through Savona and Albisola that has attracted artists since the seventeenth century. Finale Ligure has medieval ruins above a handsome old town. Albenga has a Roman grid plan intact, with a fifth-century baptistery that is one of the most important early Christian monuments in northern Italy. Inland, the valleys of the Lerrone, Merula, and Neva rivers contain castles, frescoed churches, and villages that see almost no tourist traffic. The Riviera delle Palme cooking draws on Genoese traditions but has its own character: lighter, greener, with vegetables playing a bigger role than in the city, and excellent local olive oil from the taggiasca olive.

The coast towns worth visiting in detail include Borgio Verezzi, Laigueglia, and several inland villages. Casanova Lerrone and Pontinvrea are typical of the quiet hill communes that repay a detour. The local food is a draw in itself: farinata — the chickpea flatbread baked in a wood-fired oven — is the quintessential Ligurian street food, and the area's artichokes and truffles are prized by cooks throughout northwest Italy.

Guide

Beaches

The beaches of the Riviera delle Palme are among the finest in Liguria, and the variety here is real. In some spots — Alassio, Loano, Finale — the sandy shore stretches fifty metres wide with a shallow, gently sloping bottom ideal for families. Elsewhere the beach narrows into bands between dark rocks, the water deepens quickly, and the setting suits those who prefer diving or snorkelling. The coastline alternates small coves, long open stretches, and pebble beaches, so you can generally find what you're looking for.

The sea itself is clean throughout — multiple towns along the coast carry Blue Flag status, from Andora to Laigueglia, Finale Ligure, Bergeggi and Celle Ligure. The seabed mirrors the Ligurian landscape above: uneven, rocky in many places, with cliffs dropping sheer to depths of forty metres or more at the headlands. Capo Mele, Isola Gallinara, Capo Noli and Capo Vado are the standout spots for underwater exploration.

Guide

Gastronomy

The cooking of the Riviera delle Palme is rooted in Genoese tradition — olive oil, fresh herbs, seafood — but it has its own character. The cuisine here is greener and lighter than what you find in Genoa, with vegetables playing a bigger role than meat in many classic dishes.

Take ravioli, once considered the queen of first courses along this coast. Where the Genoese version leans on meat and eggs, the local filling is built around beet, borage, chicory and endives. Even the classic stuffed breast of veal uses more egg and less of the offal you find in the Genoese recipe. What ties it all together is sweet marjoram — called persa or persiga around Albenga and Alassio — an herb of Persian origin that speaks to centuries of maritime trade.

Farinata

The most traditional street food in all of Liguria is farinata di ceci, a thin, crispy chickpea pancake baked in a wood-fired oven. In Savona they call it turtellassu and insist theirs is thinner and crispier than the Genoese fainà. Savona also makes a white version from wheat flour. In certain alleys near the old port, around five in the afternoon, you can find fette con le fugassette — slices of panissa (chickpea flour set into a firm block, cut thin, and fried in olive oil).

Extra virgin olive oil

Cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil is the undisputed foundation of Ligurian cooking. The taggiasca olive, grown in the valleys of Andora and the Albenga plain, produces an oil with a delicate, slightly fruity flavour and sometimes a hint of almonds. Other local varieties worth tasting include Colombaia and Pinola, the latter with a distinctive taste of pine kernels.

Artichokes

The spiny artichoke of Albenga is a genuine delicacy. Unlike most artichoke varieties, this one can be eaten raw in pinzimonio — dipped in extra virgin olive oil, vinegar, and salt. It is equally good breaded and fried, baked in an Easter artichoke pie, or stewed with lamb or kid.

Purple asparagus

The purple asparagus of Albenga is one of the finest vegetables in Italian cooking. Prized as early produce, it turns up on the menus of serious restaurants well beyond Liguria. If you see it on a menu here, order it.

Basil and pesto

Ligurian basil — baxiaicò in dialect — grown in the bracing coastal air, is the essential ingredient in pesto. Greenhouse cultivation means it is available year-round, but connoisseurs insist the best pesto comes in winter, made with small, pale green leaves grown on a balcony in the slanting light of a carrugio alley.

Truffles

The most unexpected find in the province of Savona is truffles. A few kilometres past the Colle di Cadibona, in the southern spur of the Langhe between Cairo Montenotte, Millesimo, Carcare and Dego — especially in the woods of Santa Giulia — you can find both black truffles (comparable to those of Norcia and Périgord) and the even more prized white truffle. This is the only place in Liguria where truffles grow.

Wines

The stretch of coast between Varazze and Andora produces a fine range of wines to match the local cooking. White wines dominate, led by Vermentino (DOC) — straw yellow, sometimes with golden reflections, full and dry. For reds, look for Rossese d'Albenga, a rosé with real character, and Ormeasco, a sturdy red that pairs well with the local rabbit, lamb and kid dishes.

Guide

Museums in Riviera delle Palme

MUSEO DEL VETRO E DELL’ARTE

MUSEO DEL VETRO E DELL’ARTE VETRARIA IN ALTARE

Up until the twelfth century, Altare was famous for the skill of its glassmakers, whose popularity and reputation were on a par with those of Murano all over Europe. «Altare means Glass,» and therefore craftsmanship, art and culture: a heritage of priceless value to be preserved, defended and displayed with pride. While the ancient traditions are kept alive in a number of workshops, the activity of promotion and cultural research is entrusted to the Istituto per lo Studio del Vetro e dell’Arte Vetraria, which curates the museum and its collection of historic glasswork.

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MUSEO «MANLIO TRUCCO» -ALBISOLA

The Museo Civico della Ceramica «Manlio Trucco» in Albisola Superiore houses and displays collections of locally-made antique pottery, from Savona and Albisola. They include a group of around forty majolica pharmacy vessels with blue monochrome decorations, dating from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, on loan from the administration of the Civil Hospitals of Genoa. Another bequest consists of a collection of around eighty pots, dating from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, including eighteenth-century majolica ware from Savona with anthropomorphic decoration that gives a vivid sense of the region's ceramic tradition.

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PINACOTECA CIVICA OF SAVONA

fortress the Pinacoteca Civica of Savona presents a broad perspective of art in Savona from the fourteenth to the twentieth century. The collection is organized on a chronological basis that follows the development of the schools represented. In the sections devoted to painting we find some examples of the Tuscan art of the fourteenth century, followed by Ligurian and Lombard artists of the fifteenth. Outstanding among these is the Crucifixion by Donato de’ Bardi, the earliest example of a painting on canvas in Italy. The works of other Lombard artists, such as Vincenzo Foppa and his followers, round out the early collection.

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TREASURY OF THE SHRINE OF NOSTRA

The museum of the Treasury of the Shrine of Nostra Signora della Misericordia is housed in the Palazzetto del Duca, built in the vicinity of the Shrine immediately after the miraculous apparition. It was set up in 1959 by the Fine Arts Service of Liguria and has recently undergone a restoration that has made it more functional. It contains extensive collections of liturgical silverware and church vestments and ornaments of various kinds, built up through bequests and donations. Some of these are extremely interesting, such as the Ecce Homo, a polychrome wooden bust attributed to a sixteenth-century Ligurian master.

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COLLECTIONS OF THE PRIAMÀR -SAVONA

The civic museums of Savona are located in the monumental complex of the Priamàr fortress. The ground floor of the Loggia del Castello Nuovo houses the Museo Archeologico, displaying finds that cover a span of time from the Middle Bronze Age, the period of the earliest frequentation of the Priamàr hill by the Ligures Sabazi, to the nineteenth century. The layout of the museum is a highly suggestive one: its fusion of the exhibition space and the archeological site allows visitors to follow the age-old history of the hill in close contact with the pottery, metal and stone artefacts displayed in their original setting.

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CIVIC ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM

The civic archeological museum of Finale Ligure is housed in the convent of Santa Caterina. It is divided into five rooms, with collections ranging from the geology of the Quaternary period up to the Middle Ages and the Modern Age. In the first section we find a reconstruction of the Finale region from the geological viewpoint, showing the most interesting rock formations and morphological phenomena. This is followed by fossils and examples of «Finale stone,» a type of limestone dating from the Tertiary period. After a review of the karst phenomena and caves in the surrounding hills, the exhibition continues with prehistoric finds drawn from those caves.

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ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM

ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM “DON CESARE QUEIROLO” - VADO LIGURE

In the Roman era Vada Sabatia, the old name for the present-day town of Vado Ligure, was of considerable importance, both politically as the seat of a Municipium and economically, in its role as a trade emporium. An echo of the splendor of Roman times still reverberates through the rooms of the Archeological Museum dedicated to Don Cesare Queirolo, the curious figure of a priest-cum- archeologist who carried out a great deal of research in the Vado area in the second half of the nineteenth century, gathering the inscriptions, coins and household finds that fill the museum today.

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CIVICA PINACOTECA

CIVICA PINACOTECA DI VILLA GROPPALLO - VADO LIGURE

In 1982 the commune of Vado Ligure inaugurated a cultural center in the eighteenth-century residence of the De Mari family, which includes a library and an art gallery. The latter is divided into several different sections: one of these is devoted to the works of sculpture and painting that won the competition for artists called the «Premio Vado,» which was held by the commune for the first time in 1951, at the urging of the Provincial Guild of Painters and Sculptors. Another section houses a selection of the family's own art collection, on permanent display.

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NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM

NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM OF ALASSIO

The Museo di Scienze Naturali «Don Bosco» in Alassio is split up into a large number of sections. The zoological one, with its butterfly collection, is the most fascinating: here the visitor can admire the golden eagle, various species of duck, stork, albatross and humming bird and a marvelous specimen of the quetzal in its rich ornithological collection. The icthyological section presents examples of the gulf’s most significant marine life, while a wide range of local medicinal herbs can be seen in the botanical section. A geological room rounds out the visit with minerals and fossils from the surrounding mountains.

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THE MUSEUMS OF ALBENGA

Visit the museums of Albenga to discover the origins of the Ligurian civilization. The Civico Museo Ingauno also gives you the opportunity to admire the Palazzo Vecchio del Comune, with its loggia decorated with a large fifteenth-century fresco of the Crucifixion in which Roman, medieval and Byzantine marble carvings and a mosaic floor from the first century AD are on display. The Sala dei Consoli, with its massive frescoed groin vault, houses epigraphs and sculptures from the ancient Roman town of Albingaunum, while the large and austere reception room on the second floor is given over to medieval finds from the cathedral district.

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MUSEUM OF THE TOWER CLOCK

MUSEUM OF THE TOWER CLOCK «G.B. BERGALLO» (TOVO SAN GIACOMO)- The Museum of the Tower Clock is housed in the former Town Hall of Tovo San Giacomo, in the ward of Bardino Nuovo. The museum contains examples of clocks produced by the Fabbrica Artigiana Bergallo, run by a family of clockmakers since 1860, and sets out to preserve and display not only complete clocks but also their components, such as mechanisms, wheels and hands. The majority of the clocks made by the Bergallo family can still be seen on the fronts of town halls and noble houses and on the bell towers of churches across Liguria.

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MUSEUM OF THE OLIVE

MUSEUM OF THE OLIVE AND OF PEASANT CULTURE - ARNASCO - The Museum of the Olive and of Peasant Culture houses documents dating from the seventeenth century testifying to the presence of the prized Pignola variety of olive in the Arnasco region. Since time immemorial the local population, employed chiefly in agriculture, has made it the center of their rural activities. Within a short space of time, in fact, the cultivation of olives became so vital and important that it constituted the area’s principal resource. The «Arnasca,» an olive with the savor of the mountain terraces, takes pride of place in the displays.

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Cities

Places in Riviera delle Palme