Charleston is best seen on foot: the South of Broad neighbourhood is small, flat, and packed with 18th-century houses, churches and the Battery waterfront. The slavery history — Old Slave Mart, International African American Museum, Fort Sumter — is the essential counterweight to the beautiful facades. Rainbow Row and the Charleston City Market anchor the tourist circuit; the H.L. Hunley submarine in North Charleston is one of the most extraordinary archaeological sites open to the public in the country.