Mercado Adolpho Lisboa

Cast-iron riverside market modelled on Les Halles in Paris

The Mercado Municipal Adolpho Lisboa is the working heart of riverside Manaus: a long Belle Époque iron hall on the Rio Negro waterfront, with stained-glass clerestories and elaborate ornament that look extraordinary in the tropical light. Inside, stalls sell river fish, Amazonian fruits, chillies, hammocks, woven baskets, and bottles of guaraná syrup and herbal remedies from the forest.

Come hungry: the food stalls along the back serve some of the cheapest and freshest meals in the city — fried tambaqui, tucumã sandwiches, cupuaçu juice. Mornings are busiest. The waterfront immediately outside the market is the launching point for many regional boats, so the area has the chaotic atmosphere of a proper port.

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Designed in 1882 by Adolpho Lisboa and assembled from a pre-fabricated Belgian iron kit shipped across the Atlantic, the market is often described — slightly hopefully — as a miniature copy of Victor Baltard's Les Halles in Paris, demolished in 1971. A major restoration in the 2000s saved it from collapse.

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