The neighbourhood immediately around Shah Jalal's shrine has its own distinct character — pilgrim hotels, sweet shops, the smell of rosewater and incense, vendors of religious books, and a constant flow of devotees from across South Asia. Even outside Thursday-night peaks, there is a low buzz around the dargah at all hours.
The lanes leading away from the main entrance are lined with small eateries serving cheap, simple Sylheti food (rice, curry, fried fish) catering to the pilgrim trade. A small public garden across from the main gate is a good place to sit and watch the comings and goings.