Greece is one of the most visited countries in Europe, and for reasons that remain entirely valid. Here is what is genuinely worth your time.
Athens
Most visitors treat Athens as a one-night stopover on the way to the islands. This is a mistake. The Acropolis and the superb Acropolis Museum alone justify two or three days. Beyond that, the neighbourhoods of Monastiraki, Psiri, and Exarcheia have genuine character, the food scene has improved dramatically, and the National Archaeological Museum holds one of the great collections of classical antiquity. Give Athens at least two full days.
The Peloponnese
The great underrated region of Greece. The ancient theatre of Epidaurus, the lion-gated citadel of Mycenae, the Byzantine ghost city of Mistra, the Venetian harbour town of Nauplia — all within a few hours of Athens. The Mani peninsula, with its medieval tower villages and barren limestone landscape, is unlike anywhere else in Greece. The city of Olympia, site of the ancient Olympic Games, deserves a full day.
Crete
Greece's largest island is in some ways a destination in itself. Crete has the Minoan palace of Knossos, the Samaria Gorge (Europe's longest), exceptional beaches on the south coast, and a food culture — Cretan olive oil, cheeses, snails, lamb — that stands apart from mainland Greek cooking. It rewards a week or more. Heraklion is manageable as a base, but the western towns of Chania and Rethymno are more attractive.
Santorini
The caldera views of Santorini — white buildings cascading down a volcanic cliff above a deep blue sea — are genuinely dramatic. Expect it to be crowded and expensive; it is one of the most visited places in all of Europe. Go in May or October if you can. The sunsets from Oia are spectacular; the frescoes in the ancient Minoan city of Akrotiri are extraordinary and less mobbed than you might expect.
Rhodes and the Dodecanese
Rhodes has one of the best-preserved medieval old towns in Europe, built by the Knights Hospitaller in the 14th century. The island is large enough to escape the crowds. The Dodecanese chain stretches east towards Turkey — Patmos, with its monastery of St. John and cave of the Apocalypse, is serene and strikingly beautiful; Kos is popular and beach-focused.
Meteora
The monasteries of Meteora, perched on the top of vast sandstone pillars in central Greece, are one of the stranger and more memorable sights in all of Europe. Six monasteries are still active. Go early in the morning to beat the tour buses. The nearby town of Kalambaka makes a practical base.
Thessaloniki
Greece's second city and the cultural capital of the north — Thessaloniki has Byzantine churches, a Roman forum, excellent museums, and arguably the best food in the country. The waterfront is lively year-round. It is often skipped by tourists heading straight for the islands, which is their loss.
Island Hopping in the Cyclades
The Cyclades — the arc of islands in the central Aegean — are what most people picture when they think of Greece: whitewashed villages, blue-domed churches, volcanic rock, brilliant light. Naxos is the largest and most self-sufficient, with good beaches and a mountainous interior. Paros is central and well-connected. Milos has remarkable volcanic beaches. Amorgos and Siros are less overrun than their neighbours. Mykonos and Santorini are the famous ones — plan accordingly.
Delphi
The sanctuary of Apollo at Delphi, set dramatically on the slopes of Mount Parnassus, was the centre of the known world in antiquity — home to the most important oracle in ancient Greece. The site is impressive in itself and the setting is spectacular. An easy day trip from Athens.