The smaller and more cheerful of the two main old-town squares, lined with cafés, brasseries, and the bandstand where the military band plays on summer evenings. The Cercle Municipal on the western side, an exuberant Beaux-Arts building from 1909, is worth a look for its frescoed facade.
Place d'Armes is the place to sit with a beer or coffee and watch the city go past. Prices reflect the location.