A bohemian institution on a narrow Haute Ville lane, with a vaulted brasserie downstairs and a more ambitious restaurant on the upper floor. Chiggeri's claim to fame is one of Europe's longest wine lists — over 2,200 references at last count, from across the world — but the Mediterranean-leaning food is far better than it has any right to be at the price.
Reservations strongly advised for dinner. The terrace tables on warm evenings book up first.