The main bazaar of Mashhad runs east from the Imam Reza Shrine and caters squarely to pilgrim shoppers: prayer beads, saffron, rosewater, dried barberries, the local sweet sohan, and a vast trade in inexpensive souvenirs. The covered sections are busy throughout the day and stay open well into the evening, particularly during pilgrimage seasons.
The saffron stalls deserve a slow look — Khorasan grows about 90% of the world's saffron, and Mashhad is the trade's commercial centre. Bargain politely; quality varies sharply.