A small triangle of streets squeezed between the Po, the Dora and the university campus. Vanchiglia was a poor neighbourhood for most of the twentieth century and survived the post-war demolitions that swept other working-class quarters; the streets are still narrow, the houses still low, the rents still relatively affordable.
In the last decade it has become Turin's most fashionable address for under-thirties: vinyl shops, tattoo studios, brewpubs, microroasters, and a long row of trattorias and pizzerias along Via Giulia di Barolo and Via Bava. The Fetta di Polenta sits at its southern corner. Cross the bridge for Monte dei Cappuccini at sunset.