Turin's Galleria Civica d'Arte Moderna holds Italy's most important municipal collection of nineteenth- and twentieth-century art. The permanent rooms run from the Macchiaioli through Futurism and Arte Povera — Turin was the centre of the Arte Povera movement in the 1960s — to international post-war names: Warhol, Twombly, Picasso, Klee, Modigliani.
The temporary shows are usually worth the trip on their own; recent ones have included major retrospectives of Italian post-war figures. The building, a 1959 rationalist box, is plain on the outside and surprisingly generous within.