The Savoys' Baroque hunting lodge, ten kilometres south-west of the city, is Filippo Juvarra at his most fantastical. A long, low, X-shaped plan opens out from a central oval hall crowned by a copper stag — the building tapers and bulges as the eye follows it.
Inside, the main hall is one of the wildest rooms in Italy: a green-and-gold trompe-l'oeil hunt scene wraps the walls, illuminated by tall windows on two storeys. The royal apartments contain original eighteenth-century furniture, much of it back home after Napoleonic-era confiscations. Bus 41 from the city centre takes about forty minutes.