Mercado de Brujas

A witches' market hidden inside a metro station

The Mercado de Brujas ("Witches' Market") is hidden inside the Estación Atocongo of Lima's Metro line — a row of stalls under the station selling herbal remedies, amulets, ojo turco charms against the evil eye, dried llama foetuses for despachos, candles in symbolic colours, and ready-made spells for love, money, and revenge. The stallholders are Andean migrants, mostly from the southern highlands, who brought the curandero tradition with them when they moved to Lima.

The customers are a cross-section of the city — businesspeople buying a "trabajo" (working spell) for a contract, mothers looking for amulets for their children, taxi drivers requesting protection. Visit during shop hours (about 9am–6pm). The vendors will sell you whatever you ask for; ask questions politely about what something is for. Photograph only with permission.

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