Rügen rewards a slow exploration — by bike, car, or the narrow-gauge steam train that has been chuffing between resort towns since 1895. The chalk cliffs of Jasmund National Park, the Wilhelmine seaside resorts of Binz and Sellin, the unsettling Nazi-era holiday camp at Prora, and the windswept tip of Cape Arkona cover most travellers' lists. Add a few days for the megalithic dolmens, the fishing village of Vitt, and the wide beaches of Tromper Wiek.