Gesù Nuovo is one of Naples' great architectural surprises. The dark, diamond-pointed facade looks almost fortress-like because it began life as a 15th-century palace, not a church. Step through the door and the mood flips completely: marble, frescoes, chapels and a high Baroque interior fill the space with the confidence of the Jesuit order at its Neapolitan peak.
The church anchors Piazza del Gesù Nuovo, a natural stop on any walk through the historic centre between Spaccanapoli, Santa Chiara and the university quarter. It is worth entering even if you have already seen several Neapolitan churches; the contrast between the severe exterior and the theatrical interior is exactly the kind of contradiction Naples does well.