La Vucciria is the oldest of Palermo's three great street markets, on the slope leading down from Via Roma to the harbour. Once the largest, it shrank dramatically in the late 20th century — the fish stalls moved away, the produce stalls thinned, and the surviving stalls now serve mostly bar food and grilled meat to evening crowds.
That partial transformation makes Vucciria the place to come for stigghiola, panelle, and rolled and grilled offal eaten in the street with a beer or a glass of wine. The 1974 painting of Vucciria by Renato Guttuso, hanging in Palazzo Steri, still defines how Palermitans imagine the market, even if today's reality is less dense and more nocturnal.