The Arcos da Lapa — the Carioca Aqueduct — are the great white arches that define the neighbourhood: 42 double-tiered spans built in the mid-18th century to carry water from the Santa Teresa hills down to the colonial city. Long after they stopped carrying water, the aqueduct found a second life as a viaduct, and the historic Santa Teresa tram still rattles across the top of the arches on its way up the hill.
By day the structure is a striking piece of colonial engineering; by night it becomes the backdrop to Lapa's street parties, when the squares beneath fill with samba, beer carts, and crowds spilling out of the surrounding clubs. It is the natural starting point for a night out in the neighbourhood.