The bonde is the soul of Santa Teresa — a little open-sided yellow tram that has climbed the hill since the 19th century, the last survivor of Rio's old streetcar network. It sets off from near the city centre, rattles across the top of the Arcos da Lapa with the city falling away on both sides, and winds up through the cobbled, hilly streets of the neighbourhood past colonial houses and viewpoints.
Restored and reopened after a long closure, it is now as much a heritage ride as public transport, and the trip itself is the attraction. Ride it up to Largo dos Guimarães or Largo das Neves and explore the bohemian streets, galleries, and bars on foot from there.