Lapa is Rio's most distinctive neighbourhood for nightlife, a cluster of old buildings and cobblestone streets centred on the 18th-century Arcos da Lapa — a massive stone aqueduct whose arches now carry the Santa Teresa tram. On Friday and Saturday nights the neighbourhood becomes one of the largest open-air parties in the world, with samba and choro spilling out of the clubs and bars into the streets.
The neighbourhood around the arches is rough-edged but gentrifying: the clubs and live music houses are mixed in with street food stalls, graffiti, and the occasional skirmish at closing time. Rio Sul's Lapa neighbourhood hosts the highest concentration of live samba in the city; the Carioca da Gema club on Rua Mem de Sá is one of the most authentic venues. The Selarón Steps at the eastern end of the arches connect Lapa to Santa Teresa above.