The city's downtown — chaotic, dense, and as far from Poblado's leafy calm as you can get within the same metro area. Plaza Botero and the Museo de Antioquia anchor one end; the Catedral Metropolitana and Parque Bolívar the other. In between: pedestrian streets of cheap clothing and electronics, fruit stalls, evangelists with microphones, shoeshines, and the steady churn of half a million daily commuters.
A walking tour with a local guide is the safest and most instructive way to see it. Don't carry valuables, don't flash a phone, and avoid being there after dark.