The oldest surviving district of Yerevan, a tangle of narrow lanes, low stone houses, and small courtyards on a hill just west of Mashtots Avenue. While most of central Yerevan was replanned and rebuilt under Soviet architects in the 20th century, Kond — designated for demolition many times over — survived through inertia. Today it feels like a village that the city grew around: roofs at strange angles, washing lines strung between buildings, neighbours sitting on doorsteps in the evening.
Several plans to clear and redevelop the district have been proposed and abandoned in recent decades, and street art has appeared on many of the walls. Take a walk through during the day; bring small change for the men playing nardi (backgammon) on the corner who may invite you to take a turn.