The covered produce market on Khorenatsi Street, ten minutes' walk from Republic Square — the real food market of central Yerevan. Long aisles of dried fruit, walnuts, salted cheeses, honey, churchkhela (walnut-and-grape sausages), sun-dried tomatoes, jars of pickled garlic and mountain herbs, sturgeon and trout from Lake Sevan, lavash bread cooled in stacks.
Vendors are friendly and most will let you taste. Bring a bag. The cheese counters at the back are particularly good; ask for tan (sour yogurt drink) and motal (aged cheese stored in goatskin).