Engaku-ji

Engaku-ji, second among the Five Great Zen Temples of Kamakura, sits directly at the top of Kita-Kamakura Station on the Yokosuka Line. The entrance gate is literally within sight of the train platform — making it the most conveniently located major temple in the region, and the place most travellers see first when they arrive.

The complex climbs up a valley into the wooded hills, with successive courtyards, sub-temples, and meditation halls arranged along a stream. Most buildings are replacements for originals destroyed by earthquakes and fire, but the layout is authentic, and several structures survive from the medieval period. The shariden (reliquary hall, said to contain a tooth of the Buddha) is a National Treasure.

If you are combining Kita-Kamakura with central Kamakura, walking between Engaku-ji and Kenchō-ji (about 15 minutes on the main road, or longer via the hillside trails) gives a good overview of the northern temple cluster.

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A story
Engaku-ji was founded in 1282 specifically to pray for those who had died on both sides of the Mongol invasions of 1274 and 1281 — a remarkable gesture of ecumenical mourning that included prayers for the Mongol dead as well as the Japanese. The main bell, cast in the 14th century, is the largest in Kamakura and can be heard throughout the surrounding area when it is rung at dawn.

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