Seoul National Cemetery spreads across a wooded hillside south of the Han River, honouring more than 170,000 soldiers and civilians who died in service of the country. The grounds are immaculately kept -- rows of identical headstones set among pine trees, with views across the river to the high-rises of Gangnam.
The main memorial hall near the entrance documents the Korean War and subsequent conflicts. Outside, a large reflecting pool and eternal flame mark the central axis. The cemetery is a solemn, quiet place, and a reminder of the cost of the conflict that shaped modern Korea.
The easiest way to reach it is via Dongjak Station on Line 4 (exit 8), which brings you directly to the main gate. Admission is free. Allow about an hour for a respectful visit.