Skadarlija is Belgrade's bohemian quarter — a short cobbled street that descends from Republic Square toward the old lower town, lined with kafanas (traditional Serbian taverns), restaurants with live music, and vine-covered courtyards. It was the gathering place of artists, writers, and musicians in the early 20th century, and the atmosphere it cultivates — convivial, slightly theatrical, old Serbia — still draws both tourists and local families out for an evening.
The kafanas here are the real thing: long tables, white tablecloths, plates of ćevapi and mixed grills, musicians going from table to table. They are not cheap by Belgrade standards, but they are memorable. Tri Šešira (Three Hats) and Dva Jelena (Two Stags) are the most traditional. The street itself — lined with chestnut trees and gas lamps — is best experienced at night, when the restaurants fill up and the music starts.