Kuching Waterfront

The Kuching Waterfront esplanade runs for about a kilometre along the south bank of the Sarawak River, past colonial-era buildings, open-air food stalls, and garden benches overlooking the water. It is the social heart of the city in the evenings, when families walk, food vendors set up, and the lights reflect off the river. The north bank view — the Astana glowing white amid palm trees, Fort Margherita on its low hill — has barely changed since the Brooke era.

Small wooden bumboats cross on request from several points along the waterfront. The crossing takes three minutes and costs almost nothing; the view from midstream is excellent. The stalls along the waterfront serve fresh coconut water, satay, and local snacks in the evenings. The waterfront connects at each end to the Old Courthouse complex and the Chinese History Museum.

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A story
The bumboats that cross the Sarawak River between the south bank and the Astana have been operating the same route for over a century. For a few ringgit you can cross to the north bank and walk up to Fort Margherita in under ten minutes — the same journey that would have taken the White Rajahs' subjects when they came to petition the court. The crossing itself, watching the city from the river at eye level, is one of Kuching's simplest and most satisfying experiences.

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