Praga is the part of Warsaw that wasn't destroyed. While German forces methodically demolished the west bank of the city in 1944, Praga on the east bank was taken quickly by Soviet forces and survived largely intact. This means its streets retain the pre-war tenement buildings, courtyards, and scale that nowhere else in Warsaw has — worn, lived-in, and genuine.
Since the mid-2000s Praga has become Warsaw's most interesting neighbourhood for art, food, and nightlife. The Neon Museum and several independent galleries operate here. Old factories and warehouses have become clubs, studios, and markets. The weekend Różyckiego bazaar is one of the most authentic street markets in the city. Cross the Poniatowski or Świętokrzyska bridges from the city centre to get here — or take the metro.