Holy Cross Church

Baroque church on Krakowskie Przedmieście containing an urn with Chopin's heart

The Church of the Holy Cross on Krakowskie Przedmieście is Baroque in style and unusually rich in associations. In a pillar of the nave is sealed an urn containing Chopin's heart, brought from Paris after his death in 1849. A plaque on the pillar simply reads: "Where your treasure is, there too will be your heart" — from the Gospel of Matthew.

The church was badly damaged in 1944 — it became a German defensive position during the Warsaw Uprising — and reconstructed afterwards. The heart survived by being moved to the countryside. The church is now a well-restored Baroque interior with several notable paintings and sculptures, and is worth entering for its own sake.

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A story
When Chopin died in Paris in 1849, he asked that his heart be taken to Poland. His sister Ludwika smuggled it out of France in a jar of cognac — past border guards who didn't inspect her luggage closely enough. The heart has been preserved in the Holy Cross Church ever since, except for a period in 1944 when it was removed for safekeeping during the Uprising. It was returned in 1945 and placed in its current pillar.

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