The covered alley off Sheikh Sabek Street in El Dahar is Hurghada's working market: spice mountains, hanging galabeyas, brass coffee pots, alabaster scarabs and the inevitable papyrus stalls. The pace is faster than in Cairo's Khan el-Khalili and the price-pretending is less elaborate, but the basic ritual is the same — quote, counter, walk away, come back. Prices here are reliably lower than the souk wing of the Marina Boulevard, and the goods are at least as good. Combine with lunch at one of the koshary places on Mohamed Hammad Sayed Street and a look at the Saint Shenouda Cathedral around the corner.