People's Park

People's Park in the city centre is Chengdu's living room. The park's teahouses are the most atmospheric in the city — large outdoor pavilions where old men spend the afternoon with jasmine tea and newspapers, punctuated by the clack of mahjong tiles. The park also has a small lake with rowing boats, a memorial to the Sichuan Railway Protection Movement (an uprising that inadvertently triggered the 1911 revolution), and a good night market around the edges after dark.

At weekends, parents bring photos of unmarried children to a section of the park known as the marriage market, where prospective matches are pinned to umbrellas or laid out on mats. It is one of the most peculiar social institutions in urban China and entirely genuine.

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People's Park contains what may be the world's most democratic teahouse culture. On any weekday afternoon, hundreds of retirees occupy bamboo chairs around the park's tea pavilions, paying a few yuan for bottomless jasmine tea served in traditional covered bowls (gaiwan). Ear-cleaners and masseuses circulate through the crowd. Between sessions they play mahjong, practise tai chi, or simply watch the city pass by. In a culture of hurry, it is an island of deliberate slowness.

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