Wuhan is a city of three towns at the confluence of two rivers, and the things to do are split between the three. Wuchang, on the south bank of the Yangtze, holds the Yellow Crane Tower, East Lake, and the Hubei Provincial Museum. Hankou, on the north bank, has the old treaty-port concession districts and the heart of the night-food scene. Hanyang, the smallest of the three, holds the Guiyuan Temple and the Qingchuan Pavilion looking back across to Snake Hill. Allow at least two full days and a long lunch.