Heera Mandi

Heera Mandi — the "Diamond Market" — is the historic red-light district immediately north of the Badshahi Mosque. By day it is a slightly run-down working-class neighbourhood with kabab stalls, tikka shops, and rooftops overlooking the great mosque; by night it has a complicated, semi-clandestine other life.

It is a place to walk through at dusk for the Food Street that runs along the rooftops with the Badshahi Mosque framed beyond, not a place to linger after dark. The 19th-century courtesan culture is long gone; what remains is a residual atmosphere and some of the best mutton paya in Pakistan.

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A story
Heera Mandi was for centuries the Mughal court's quarter for tawaifs — accomplished singers, dancers, and courtesans who trained in classical music and poetry as much as in the arts of seduction. The British recategorised them as prostitutes under colonial laws, breaking the artistic guilds and leaving the neighbourhood with the seedier reputation it still struggles with today.

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