Opened in 1939 by Leopold and Josefine Hawelka, this small, deliberately unpolished coffeehouse on Dorotheergasse became the unofficial living room of Vienna's postwar artistic scene. Painters, poets, and philosophers crammed onto its worn velvet banquettes, and the walls still display works given by regulars in lieu of payment. The coffee is good, the atmosphere is better, and the signature move is the Buchteln — warm, jam-filled sweet rolls baked by Josefine's recipe and served only after 10pm. The Hawelkas are gone now, but the family keeps the place running with minimal changes. Skip the tourist-packed Cafe Central and come here instead for the real thing.