Vienna's most elegant pedestrian boulevard cuts through the First District from Stephansplatz toward Kohlmarkt, following the line of a Roman defensive trench — Graben literally means "ditch." Today the ditch is long buried under polished stone paving and flanked by grand baroque and Jugendstil facades housing luxury shops, cafes, and the occasional hidden courtyard. The Plague Column anchors the center, and the two ornate fountains at either end (St. Joseph and St. Leopold) are easy to miss in the bustle. Come in the evening when the crowds thin and the buildings are lit, or during the Christmas market season when the whole street glows. It is also the best starting point for exploring the lanes of the Innere Stadt.