Built between 1907 and 1921 by Vaclav Havel's grandfather (yes, the future president's family), this art nouveau arcade off Wenceslas Square is a delightfully scruffy antidote to Prague's polished tourist attractions. Duck through the entrance and you find yourself in a labyrinth of passages connecting to other arcades, lined with shops, a vintage cinema, and a marble-floored concert hall. The undisputed highlight is David Cerny's satirical sculpture of St. Wenceslas riding an upside-down dead horse, dangling from the ceiling — a sly jab at Czech political culture. The Lucerna Music Bar downstairs hosts rock and indie acts alongside its legendary 1980s and 1990s video parties. It is the kind of place that rewards aimless wandering.